African-American hair, or black hair, is typically characterized by very thick, curly, and delicate strands. Sebum, which is the oil secreted by the scalp, often has a harder time reaching the roots of African-American hair, as the outer layer of the hair strands can be up to twice as thick as Caucasian hair. Because of this, African-American hair care requires special products that help to prevent breakage and maintain moisture.
Wide-tooth combs, picks, and natural boar brushes are optimal tools for African-American hair care. Fine tooth combs and brushes with plastic bristles are more prone to break or snag curly strands. Preventing breakage can also be done in the nighttime as part of a before-bed hair care regiment, which includes either braiding the hair in sections, tying it up gently in a ponytail, or wrapping it in a scarf. Sleeping on a satin pillowcase can also minimize the friction that would occur from sleeping against a cotton pillowcase, possibly causing breakage to the hair.
Products which contain alcohol and other drying ingredients, such as gels and hairsprays, should generally be avoided in African-American hair care, along with products that contain mineral oil or petroleum, which can block pores. It is especially crucial to avoid products which contain drying ingredients on hair that has been relaxed, as the process of relaxing African-American hair strips the hair of its ability to self-moisturize.
The best products to use for African-American hair care include hydrating shampoos, deep-penetrating moisturizers, pomades, lotions, and leave-in conditioners. Products which contain pomegranate seed oil, Shea butter, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, and other natural ingredients also work well on African-American hair. Products which specifically state on the label that they are for black or ethnic hair are the best choices for African-American hair care.
Unlike other types of hair, African-American hair generally does not need to be washed daily, but rather once a week to every ten days on average, in order to allow the scalp’s natural sebum to penetrate the hair. The spectrum of recommended washing frequencies varies with African-American hair care and depends on the individual’s unique hair type. For example, a person of mixed race may find that her hair becomes oily more quickly than another individual with African-American hair. Rinsing the hair with water every day is recommended, as is blotting the hair gently with a towel rather than twisting or wringing the hair out, which can cause breakage.