There are two main types of knitting commonly done: warp knitting and weft knitting. They are different from each other because in warp knitting the yarn follows a zigzag pattern along the length of the fabric, with adjacent columns called “wales.” In contrast, weft knitting uses a single row called a “course” across the width of the fabric. Warp knitting is done along the length of a fabric, while weft knitting is done along the width of the fabric.
Another difference is that warp knitting is often done by machine, not by hand. It can be a bit difficult and time-consuming to do by hand because the knitter must always ensure that the “ends,” referring to the number of individual strands of yarn, must be exactly equal to the count of stitches in one row. Warp knitting using machines is actually a modern innovation that sprang from much older techniques of hand or weft knitting. Knitted fabrics made through a warp type of knitting include Raschel knits, tricot, and Milanese knits. These are popular because they are soft, yet exceptionally resistant to runs, and they are also not at all difficult to sew using a warp knitting machine.
Of the three knitted fabrics, tricot is the most delicate and it is often used in lingerie. Tricot comes from the French word tricoter which means “to knit.” Milanese knits are more stable and strong, but also more expensive. They were used to make women’s underwear, particularly the more luxurious and pricey types, but now they are not utilized as much anymore. Raschel knits, meanwhile, continue to be very popular form of warp-knitting. They are bulky and not very stretchable, but strong and durable. They are often used in jackets, coats, skirts and dresses.
Knitters, and people who work with fabrics, prefer nylon tricot because it is soft but it does not run or snag easily. It is very comfortable to wear because it does not cling to the body, and it does not build up static. Because of its warp-knit construction, it also has an interesting texture; one side has vertical grains and the other side has a horizontal grain.
Knitting produces fabrics that are more stretchable and flexible than fabrics produced by weaving. This is because both warp and weft knitting techniques use interlocking loops. The yarn used in knitting also contributes to the stretchability and softness of the knitted product.
